The Complete Iraqi Kurdistan Backpacking Guide (2024)

The autonomous region of Kurdistan is not in the crosshairs of the average backpacker. The sole mention of “Iraq” is enough to make most people reconsider traveling there.

But if you’ve already landed on this page, you are perhaps a little intrigued with Iraqi Kurdistan. You may be planning a trip, or already be there. Maybe you need some first-hand tips and practicalities about backpacking in Iraqi Kurdistan. Or the assurance that it’s safe.

Well, here is the complete Iraqi Kurdistan backpacking guide that will help you plan and prepare for your visit.

Is Iraqi Kurdistan safe?

Probably the first question on anyone’s mind when the country of Iraq is mentioned. Make a distinction though! The Kurdistan region in northern Iraq is an entity that de facto operates as an independent state.

Most of the things you’ve heard over the years about Iraq most probably don’t apply to Kurdistan.

• Kurdistan has its own military, the Peshmerga
• Kurdish authorities manage the outer borders with Turkey and Iran
• The Iraqi military and police have no jurisdiction in Kurdistan
• Anyone entering from Federal Iraq into Kurdistan undergoes extensive scrutiny.

While backpacking in Kurdistan, I felt safe 100% of the time and there never was a moment when I had doubts about my security. Not even during my 1-hour interrogation by the Peshmergas.

Succinctly – it’s safe.

Do I need a visa?

Yes.

Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival at both the Erbil and Sulaymaniyah international airports and the land borders with Turkey and Iran. Check the latest list of nationalities that can get a visa on arrival.

The visa costs 75$ but is payable in Iraqi Dinars (100.000 IQD). There is a currency exchange service at all entry points and the rate is close to the market one, so don’t bother exchanging beforehand.

The visa for Iraqi Kurdistan is not valid for the rest of Iraq.

If you get your visa from the rest of Iraq though (say if you land in Baghdad), it is valid for Kurdistan.

Getting into Kurdistan

There are two international airports – in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. There are frequent flights from Istanbul, Ankara, Dubai, and Qatar, to name a few.

I was in Southeastern Turkey (in Midyat) when I decided to jump over to Kurdistan. There is only one border crossing – Khalil Ibrahim, close to the small Turkish city of Silopi.

I strongly advise you to take an overnight bus from Diyarbakir, Mardin, Batman, or Cizre to Duhok, Erbil, or Sulaymaniyah. You can find their schedule and book online at obilet.com.

Buses arrive at the border late at night when it’s much calmer and you can kind of go with the flow and not worry about what to do next. There are a few checkpoints along the way and it’s very convenient to have a crowd around you.

The first checkpoint is on the Turkish side and crossing was seamless. They exit stamp your passport and that’s it.

The next one is a luggage x-ray check. It’s quite thorough because many people try to smuggle alcohol and cigarettes above the duty-free limit.

After that you pass by Asayish, the “secret service” of Kurdistan, who will check your passport and give you a card. Present this card to the next desk where they will ask you to pay 100.000 IQD for the visa.

In the room next door, there’s a guy who functions as a currency exchange and will sell you Iraqi Dinars for US dollars or Euros. You can also exchange British pounds and Turkish lira there.

Pay your visa, get a stamp and you’re good to go.

Leaving Kurdistan through this border is also easy using an overnight bus, although it takes much longer, as the customs checks are even more thorough on the Turkish side.

It took me about 1 hour to pass all the checks coming in and more than 5 hours going out. Plan accordingly.

The Money Situation

Cash or Card?

Kurdistan is heavily cash-based. You will hardly be able to find a place to use your card (maybe in some high-end hotels) and ATMs are sparse – you can find them in bigger cities, in the malls, and next to a bank.

They dispense both USD and IQD but keep in mind all the ATMs charge a commission (around 3 USD) and some cards are not even accepted. Revolut is not supported in Kurdistan.

Bring cash!

Currency Exchange

You can exchange almost any currency in the centers of Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, and Duhok, but it’s smart to have USD, GBP, TRY, or EUR on you.

The Iraqi Dinar is pegged to the US dollar, so 1 USD is always 1460 IQD 1300 IQD (Iraq revalued the dinar in early 2023). However, exchange offices will give you slightly lower rates (they have to eat too, right).

Exchange bureaus

Where it gets interesting is that there are two types of exchange offices in Kurdistan. The normal, “Western” style ones you are probably familiar with – a small walk-in store with a desk, see-through windows, and a small hole to exchange money. Nothing extraordinary.

Most people though, change their money at the street vendors. Wait, don’t imagine a shady guy with an oversized coat and loads of cash tucked in his inside pockets, ready to scam you in a dark alley. It’s all perfectly legal and quite normal.

You can find small stands or cards full of money in all the big cities that act as currency exchange. They look like this:

Most of them stick to the official rates but always ask beforehand. Show them a banknote and they will show you the amount in IQD on a calculator or something. If it’s much lower than the official, haggle. If they don’t budge, go to another one.

I didn’t have to haggle in Sulaymaniyah as they always gave me the official rate there, but around the Citadel in Erbil the vendors are Arabs and some try to screw you. Have the rate written down beforehand and don’t settle for less!

Mobile Internet

Surprisingly, mobile internet is pretty good in Kurdistan. There’s 4G in the big cities and satisfactory coverage in smaller ones. There’s even a connection in some offroad regions.

The cheapest option is Fastlink. They are sold at almost any street currency exchange vendor in little plastic rectangular boxes with the sim card inside.

It automatically comes with 7 days validity and a 3GB welcome package and you don’t have to register or present your passport – just plug it in and enjoy.

I bought two of these during my stay – the first one cost me 5000 IQD / 3.1 EUR in Sulaymaniyah, but the second cost 3000 IQD / 1.9 EUR through a friend. Even at 5k, it’s an amazing value!

You can of course add a package after validity (instead of buying a new one) but they cost upwards of 15000 IQD for 30GB or more and sometimes they only work in the city you bought it in. Ask before you buy!

Alternatively, you can use an e-sim, like Airalo. It’s a bit more expensive, but also more convenient as you won’t have to go out searching for an office and will have internet immediately.

Where to stay while backpacking in Kurdistan

For Kurdistan – forget about booking online. You can find accommodation on Booking, but it’s more expensive than booking directly.

Instead, go around the hotels in the centers of the bigger cities and ask them for the room rate and to show you the room.

Always haggle, always! Below I will share some tips for each city and where I stayed in each.

Sulaymaniyah

Also called Slemani or Suli, is the most modern of the cities in Kurdistan if I say so myself. I went there first because I figured I would be traveling in a bus the whole night, so I might as well get off after sunrise, not in the middle of the night (like if I had gone to Erbil or Duhok).

It also saved me a trip to Suli and back, as I was going to get back to Turkey afterward anyway. But I digress.

Slemani has the only hostel in all of Iraqi Kurdistan – the Dolphin Hotel and Hostel. The rates for a dorm are around 16-22 eur, which I feel it’s a bit on the expensive side, but it’s totally worth it in this case.

The hostel is clean and tidy, in a top-notch location in the center, has superb internet, breakfast included and the manager is super helpful. I was given a single room for the same price, although I had booked a dorm but I didn’t complain as I needed some alone time anyway.

The manager is a well-traveled fellow himself and has Revolut, so he offered to give me IQD cash if I sent him EUR or USD on Revolut, which was quite convenient for me. If you’re not using Revolut (or any of my other personal finance apps) as a backpacker, what are you doing with your life?

Erbil

Erbil’s cheapest hotel on Booking is at 30 EUR per night and at least a 45-minute walk from the Citadel, which adds another 5-6 eur per day if using taxis (and no, there’s no public transportation. Check the transport section).

Instead, go to the Citadel area and circle the bazaar. You will find many hotels, usually run by Arabs (not Kurds) and they cost between 15000 IQD (10 EUR) and 35000 IQD (24 EUR).

Layali Baghdad, right next to the Citadel is a good clean option, but it costs 35000 IQD.

There are some hotels, which are in terrible condition and they don’t budge from the 20000 price tag.

Walk a bit away from the Citadel and you will find hotels for the same price with cleaner rooms. Still, don’t expect luxury.

Most hotels are NOT on Google Maps, nor on Maps.me. I don’t even know the name of the hotel I stayed in, but it was 20000 IQD and relatively clean. You can find it at these coordinates: 36.185173, 44.008866.

Duhok

As with the other cities – go around the center, near the bazaar, and ask the hotels to see a room and for the price. Always haggle.

I first tried Hotel Duske (it’s on Maps.me) and the manager brought it down from 40000 to 30000, but I was sure I could find a cheaper one.

The hotel next door (Hotel Aram, but it’s not on Google Maps, nor on Maps.me) offered 40000 and I haggled it down to 25000. It was quite clean, the room was nice, and the WiFi – reliable.

Soran

As far as I am aware, there’s only one hotel in Soran – Zagros Hotel. There may be more, but since Zagros looked clean and only cost 15000 I didn’t even check elsewhere. You can find it both on Google Maps and Maps.me.

Akre

Before going to Akre, I read that the Azadi Hotel was the only accommodation option. However, I found it completely empty when I arrived. When I say empty, I mean “The Last of Us” kind of empty.

Upon asking in the pharmacy next door, I was told that it was no longer a hotel – closed down. He told me to check Laween Motel (it’s on both maps).

Unfortunately, they first said they were closed, then it turned out they were merely full. I left my backpack to go to Akre Castle and then they said there was an available room after all.

The manager wouldn’t budge from 35000 IQD though so I decided to go sleep in Duhok instead. Still, he was a very helpful and friendly guy.

Other Cities

Zakho, Amedi, Ranya, Dokan, and Halabja are the other relatively big cities in Kurdistan. I haven’t stayed in either of them and can’t give you useful info.

They may have a hotel, but I wouldn’t count on it as they are quite small and not very touristy.

Other options

Couchsurfing is quite popular in Kurdistan. Kurdish people are incredibly friendly and welcoming and you should have little problem finding a host in the major cities and maybe one of the smaller ones as well. I stayed with a Kurdish family for three days in Qaladitza.

I can also recommend two Facebook groups where you can meet locals and travelers. The first is Kurdistan Region Travel, as the name suggests – only for the Kurdistan region and the second is Iraqi Travellers Cafe which is for all of Iraq.

Both groups have many people ready to give you useful information and meet you in different parts of Iraq and Kurdistan.

Transport in Kurdistan

This is where things get tricky.

There’s some form of public transportation within the three big cities, but it can be unreliable and confusing to use.

There’s more than one bus station (called “garage” by the locals), it’s not always clear where they are on the map and don’t get me started about the lack of any information about routes or timetables.

It’s just not meant for tourists. Still, if you ask any local on the street, they will most likely point you in the right direction.

Between cities, people use minibuses or shared taxis. Minibuses cost a bit less, but they depart only after they are full (about 20 people) or at a set deadline sometime in the afternoon, which is usually not ideal.

Shared taxis are what they sound like – 4 people share a taxi to the same destination. They also depart when full, but it’s much easier to get 4 people than 20.

Routes like Slemani to Erbil (10000 with bus, 15000 with shared taxi) and Erbil to Duhok (same prices) are common and you won’t have a problem getting a ride.

Less popular routes are just a confusing mess though.

On several occasions, I asked a local to call the shared taxi for me and inform them that I wanted to go somewhere, then waited until the taxi came to pick me up. It’s just a bit random in Kurdistan, that’s the way it is.

Best advice: ask the locals.

Military Checkpoints

On the topic of transport… Kurdistan is safe, but it’s still heavily militarized. There’s a saying among the Kurds that they have “No friends, but the mountains“, but let’s not go into the geopolitical situation.

Every 30-40 kilometers there is a military checkpoint. Most of the time the officer doesn’t even check the IDs of the passengers.

Sometimes they check everybody’s ID or passport, other times they will single out and check only you (because you stick out like a sore thumb), and yet other times they will ask you to get out of the vehicle with your luggage and undergo a thorough inspection.

That’s what happened to me because I am a tad suspicious, I guess. I presume it was because I was traveling a route not usually frequented by other tourists (Ranya to Soran).

They searched all my luggage, checked my laptop and its files, and even went through the Turkish museum tickets that I keep as souvenirs. I think they thought I was a Turkish spy. It was a memorable experience.

This happens really very rarely (I was told by locals and other travelers) and even when it happens the Peshmerga are very friendly and treat you well. I was even fed some bean soup while they were searching through my luggage. The Kurds man, gotta love those people.

Where to go and what to see in Iraqi Kurdistan

Sulaymaniyah

Go to the Slemani Museum (archeological findings in Kurdistan) and then go to the Red Prison Museum (Amna Suraka, translates to “Let’s not forget”).

Both are on the maps, they are walking distance from each other and about 30 min walk from the city center. Entrance is free for both.

The Amna Suraka museum is a must-see as an introduction to the recent history of Iraqi Kurdistan – the Saddam era genocide and the war against ISIS.

In the city center, take a walk around the bazaar and try some of the local food. You can also go to Chaviland (45 min walk or ~3000 IQD for a taxi), but keep in mind that it is heavily dependent on the unreliable electricity in Iraq.

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A brief tangent – the national electricity grid in Iraq provides high amper electricity, but it’s not available 24 hours (political reasons, probably corruption also, let’s move on).

The rest of the time there is “private” electricity, created using petrol engines, that has low amperage, i.e. not enough to power heavy-use electronics like the AC, let alone a cable car.

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Also, don’t go there during the day if it’s summer – it is too hot and people don’t go out, hence the park doesn’t work either. So I was told at least.

I went at 3 PM and it looked dead. It was like taken out of Chernobyl, totally barren.

Anyway, if you take the cable car (I was told 8000 IQD ticket) you can get very nice views of Slemani from the Goizha mountain viewpoints.

As a possible day trip from Slemani, you can go to Halabja, about an hour away by shared taxi. Get the shared taxi from the Sharazur Terminal. It costs 6000 IQD.

In Halabja, visit the memorial complex for the more than 10000 killed in the biggest chemical attack against civilians in history. Truly a horrible moment in Kurdish history.

From there you can go to Ahmad Awa waterfall, but you have to either get a taxi just for yourself (about 20000 both ways) or hitchhike, which could be unreliable if you want to get back to Slemani. There isn’t much more to do in Halabja though.

Erbil

I found Erbil to be a bit dull, to be honest. It desperately wants to be Dubai of Mesopotamia and to some extent that’s true, but only for the locals: Iraqi Arabs and rich Kurds. The international vibe is missing.

The city is organized in concentric circles where the center is dominated by the Citadel, surrounded by markets and bazaars and the farther out you go, the more modern the neighborhoods become.

About 5 km from the center are the new, up-and-coming, hip parts that the young people go to, like Ghazali Street. A taxi to take you there costs between 3k and 5k, depending on your bargaining skills and charisma.

Of course, you have to visit the Citadel. It’s open every day from 9:00 to 18:30 and is free to enter. It can get pretty hot in summertime as there’s no shade at the top, but you can get some respite in the two museums there.

Most of the buildings are in disrepair and except for the main street, most side streets are barred and you can’t roam around.

As you enter from the main (south) entrance, the Gems Museum is on your left. Honestly, this one is not worth it. It’s only a 1000 IQD entrance fee, but the collection is really small and there’s little information. Still, if you’re a fan of rocks, by all means, enter.

On the right is the Kurdish Textiles Museum. It also costs 1000 IQD to enter and is totally a must-see. There is a collection of carpets, traditional hats, clothes, and information about beliefs, lifestyles, and the Kurdish ethnicity in general.

You will learn a lot from this museum, give it at least an hour.

Right next to the Citadel is the main square where you can get some tea from the countless roaming vendors or indulge in something sweet from one of the pastry shops in the old bazaar.

I really liked the trilece that they make, but avoid the kunefe – it’s horrible compared to the absolute deliciousness I’ve experienced in Turkey.

Other places to visit in Erbil include Sami Abdulrahman Park, a big public park with loads of alleys and at least some shade, Minaret Park where you can see the very old Mudhafaria Minaret and take an aerial lift to Shanadar Park, and the beautiful Jalil Khayat Mosque, the biggest in Kurdistan.

Lake Dukan

That’s the biggest lake in Kurdistan. The two cities that you can use as a base here are Dukan and Ranya.

Keep in mind there isn’t much to do at the lake. There’s no vegetation, and bare rocks everywhere, and the water level is at an all-time low because both Turkey and Iran constrict the amount of water that flows into Kurdistan.

Rawanduz valley and Gali Ali Beg Waterfall

Rawanduz is about 5 km away from Soran. To get there you will have to either walk, get a taxi (3-5k) or hitchhike.

Hitchhiking is rather easy in this region and you won’t have to wait long but keep in mind some that stop will still expect payment, so settle this right after entering the vehicle.

The Rawanduz Valley is breathtaking and quite a sight.

A good idea is to combine visiting the valley with the two waterfalls in the vicinity. About 8km from Rawanduz is Bekhal Waterfall. Again, you can get a taxi or hitchhike. I chose to walk half the way as the views were pretty good and then hitchhiked the other half.

Bekhal waterfall is pretty average, but you can get something to drink or eat and relax a bit there.

From Bekhal it’s another 10 or so kilometers to Gali Ali Bag waterfall, the one featured on the 5000 Iraqi Dinar banknote. There are some spectacular views on the way and hitchhiking should be rather easy.

Once at the waterfall prepare for a crowd especially if it’s Friday or Saturday (the weekend in most Muslim countries). There’s an entrance fee of 1000 IQD.

Keep in mind the whole area is flooded permanently. I couldn’t quite figure out if it’s intentional or bad planning and construction, but you should probably take off your shoes and walk barefoot or carry some flip-flops with you.

Akre

I am not sure Akre is worth a whole day’s visit, but if you’re passing by, it’s a beautiful location. The old part of town is around 5 km from the new part where any taxi or minibus will drop you off. My advice is to take a taxi there for 2000 IQD and walk back.

There isn’t much else to do in Akre besides that. Hotels are scarce – check the accommodation section.

Lalish

Lalish is the holy city of the Yazidis. It really is a unique place and a must-see while you’re in Kurdistan. Unfortunately, there’s no transport that goes there, so your only option is to take a taxi or hitchhike.

Some say that there is a shared taxi going from Duhok to Al-Shikhan, but all the locals at the garage said there wasn’t and directed me to a private taxi.

It cost me 15000 IQD one way, but in hindsight, I didn’t haggle and I probably overpaid. You can easily get there for 10k, maybe even less.

It’s important to note that you must be wearing long pants while in Lalish and no shoes are allowed past the entrance. I saw people walk in socks and this is a smart option if you visit in the summer as the stones get quite hot.

There’s no entrance fee – it’s a holy place and a village after all. You will see real Yazidi people just living there, going about their daily business – eating, studying, sleeping, etc.

I strongly encourage you to ask some of the locals to explain to you what you’re seeing. There are a ton of small and odd rituals around Lalish and if you don’t know them it will seem like a pretty boring place. I explain a few of them in this Lalish article.

The main place to visit is the temple. The front door is “guarded” by the Peacock – the messenger of God according to the Yazidis and on the right you can see a black snake – another symbol of protection.

Getting back from Lalish to Duhok is just as hard. You can hitchhike (usually to the junction to Ba’adra, then another car to Duhok) or negotiate a taxi beforehand.

Remember that random cars can still expect money. I paid 2000 IQD to get to the checkpoint at Ba’adra, then got picked up by another car that I paid 5000 IQD to get to Duhok.

Duhok

Not much to do in Duhok, I’m afraid. There’s a bazaar, but after already seeing two in Sulaymaniyah and Erbil this one couldn’t fascinate me. It isn’t even any bigger or better in some regard.

The only thing resembling a tourist attraction in Duhok is the Charsteen cave on the hill overlooking Duhok Dam.

There’s a 1000 IQD entrance fee, some ruins on the way, a beautiful waterfall, and an ancient prehistoric cave. Hike a bit more than the trail suggests and you can have nice views of Duhok Dam.

Other notable sites

• Amedi – an ancient city located on a cliff;
• Gali Sherana waterfall – ice-cold water you can swim in, beautiful scenery, and an awesome spot for a picnic;
• Mar Mattai monastery – an ancient Syriac monastery;
• Choman – a town in the west with popular resorts;
• Alqosh and Rabban Hermizd Chaldean Monastery;

Code of conduct if you’re ever in someone’s home

There are a few cultural differences to keep in mind while in Kurdistan. I write from the perspective of a man; a woman will definitely have a few extra things to observe.

If you’re ever invited to someone’s home and are their guest, you will be made to feel at home. Which probably means you have to do what they do.

• Take off your shoes at the entrance – that should go without saying;
• If you’re sitting on the ground (as many Kurdish homes do not have furniture to make more space for big families), do NOT sit with your legs straight and the soles of your feet pointing at someone. It’s considered rude. Instead, cross your legs or fold them towards you;
• If another person enters the room, stand up to greet them;
• Do NOT shake the hands of girls and women, just a small wave from a distance is enough;
• Wear long pants even inside;
• Never show any nudity apart from your hands, arms, and neck. When taking a shower, have all your new clothes with you, change inside, and then walk out dressed;
• Do NOT lie on the ground when there are other people in the room;
• Say “Dasrhosh” (extra polite thanks) and “Spas” (thanks) when given something or someone buys something for you.