Sleeper Buses in Vietnam: Coffins on Wheels or Adventure Capsules?

A mode of transport you will find hard to avoid in Vietnam is the famous sleeper bus.

From short 3-hour trips to arduous 36-hour odysseys, sleeper buses will welcome you with padded spaceship-style pods or at least a semi-soft, narrow, and short but more importantly flat real estate just for you.

The world of Vietnamese sleeper buses is a wild one. Even when the journeys are boring, they are extraordinary.

What to expect in a Vietnamese sleeper bus

The best way to experience the sleeper buses in Vietnam is to be surprised. I still remember the first time I walked into one, fascinated by the entire concept.

However, since you’re already reading this, you want to be prepared for what to expect. So here is my honest review based on about 15 journeys I did spread over 3 separate trips to Vietnam.

Layout

Most sleeper buses feature 3 rows of bunk beds, each on 2 levels (lower and upper).

Sometimes the beds at the back of the sleeper bus (both lower and upper) are not separated, instead creating a single platform of 4 beds. Only go for those beds if you don’t mind sharing really close quarters with people you don’t know.

Size of the beds

The Vietnamese are notoriously small people. The buses’ main clientele is local Vietnamese people, so the beds inside reflect that.

The berths in sleeper buses are usually about 1.7 to 1.8 meters (5’7” to 5’9”) long. I am around 1.75 m tall and I fit just barely, but if you’re any taller than that, you may find your legs slightly cramped. If you’re a giant, traveling on a Vietnamese sleeper bus is just not for you.

Additionally, the feet area at the far end is sloped, giving your adventure paddles even less space.

One more thing to note is the bed’s angle. It’s not perfectly flat! A very slight incline starts in the middle and goes towards the head. This is, of course, not perfect for sleeping but isn’t terrible either.

Luxurious buses with larger, flat beds exist for double or triple the price.

Comfort

As people go inside the sleeper bus, they remove their shoes and put them in a plastic bag. You keep your bag/shoes with you. This means the buses are relatively clean which is probably their biggest positive aspect.

A thin blanket and a tiny pillow are provided. Both are inadequate for longer journeys. The AC is often too cold and you should wear a warm hoodie. One time, in a sleeper bus from Ninh Binh to Sapa (up in the far north of Vietnam), I slept in my winter jacket and still felt somewhat cold!

Most sleeper buses feature curtains for each berth giving you some privacy and less light. However, some don’t, and being on the upper berth in such buses feels odd.

Succinctly, don’t expect to sleep on a Vietnamese bus as comfortably as Sleeping Beauty. It’s bearable indeed but not remarkable.

Meal stops and bathroom breaks

I don’t know if it’s a law but every journey longer than 4 hours has a bathroom break. Even longer journeys stop more times and usually it coincides with a meal time.

Upon exiting the bus, grab a pair of slippers from the big box next to the main door. This way you don’t have to put your shoes on every time. So convenient!

The sleeper buses usually stop at a small restaurant where you can order a bowl of pho or fried rice or similar. These establishments cook quickly and if you order immediately, you will have enough time to finish before the bus goes again 20-30 minutes later.

Bathrooms at these stops are lackluster, but what do you expect from rural Vietnamese shacks in the middle of nowhere?

Are the Vietnamese sleeper buses safe?

Are sleeper buses safer than airplanes? Hell no.

Are they safer than riding a motorcycle on the Ha Giang Loop? Yeah, totally.

Safety is relative. Although the sleeper buses in Vietnam are generally safe, they leave a lot to be desired.

Drivers sometimes drive too crazy for comfort. Aggressive acceleration, sudden braking, and sharp turns can make the journey feel unsafe, which can sometimes lead to deadly accidents like this one.

Up until the 2010s, most drivers would take methamphetamines to keep them awake through the night. Almost certainly, some still do, especially less-reputable bus companies with little oversight and horrible working conditions. However, Vietnamese authorities have cracked down on drug use and impose hefty fines which have reduced the incidence rate to a fraction.

Should you worry too much? I mean… it depends on your outlook on risk. It’s one of those things that you can minimize with decisions beforehand (e.g. pick a reputable bus company and use your seat belt) but once you’re on the road, it’s largely outside of your control.

If you want maximum safety, go for planes, trains, and private transfers. You’ll be cutting the risk from a few thousands of a percent for an accident (~17 accidents per 100.000 people) to a few hundred thousands of a percent.

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As for safety inside buses, my observations are that you have little to worry about. There’s always an attendant inside the bus and I’ve never had anything happen to me or anyone else in any of the sleeper buses I’ve been.

Of course, keep your valuables with you at all times and out of sight. Other than that, enjoy the ride.

What are the best sleeper bus companies in Vietnam?

I am a big fan of Phương Trang, also called FUTA bus. They cover all of Vietnam, the buses are well-maintained, the attendants – mannered, and the drivers don’t take drugs, to my knowledge and observations.

I have used FUTA many times and believe they are the best sleeper company in Vietnam.

Moreover, they offer free transfers from and to the bus station!

This means you don’t have to pay extra for taxis or navigate confusing local public transport – FUTA will pick you up from your accommodation, drive you to the bus station and then after the bus journey put you on another minibus and drive you straight to your new accommodation. VALUE!

The other good company is The Sinh Tourist which is a bit more luxurious with a higher price tag and focused on tourist transport (whereas FUTA passengers are 95% Vietnamese).

How to book tickets

In person	Through your accommodation	Online
Go to the nearest FUTA office and buy a ticket on the spot. No mark-up!	Ask your hotel or hostel to book a bus for you. Virtually all lodgings in Vietnam can do this service though it usually means you will pay a little extra in “service fees”.	Book via 12Go. Be careful which company you choose and read the reviews! The platform charges a small service fee but is otherwise hassle-free.

An option I haven’t used before but have heard good reviews about is Vexere.com. It looks quite convenient, and I may give it a try next time I travel to Vietnam.

What are the best seats?

When given the option to choose, go for а middle row, bottom seat towards the front.

These seats are the most stable and will result in the least nausea on curvy roads and crazy driving.

Top bunks are also nice because you will experience fewer disturbances. Side beds are good if you don’t get carsick easily and you travel to/from the Highlands (#views).

Avoid beds at the back of the bus – they are way too bumpy and if it’s the far back – an outright communal sleeping area (see layout above).

Sleeper bus vs sleeper train

I have taken the train in Vietnam just once. It’s something I regret, as I love traveling by train.

The main line in Vietnam is the Reunification Express connecting Ho Chi Minh City with Hanoi. The whole journey takes over 35 hours, though it stops at major towns on the way.

For example, I took it from Nha Trang to Da Nang, which was an 11-hour journey overnight.

It was a bit more expensive than the sleeper bus, the berth was considerably smaller, and (since I booked a 3rd class ticket) there were 6 beds inside each compartment. It wasn’t crowded per se, but there wasn’t much space to move.

On the positive side, the train is much more stable than a bus and as such it’s easier to sleep inside. Fresh linen and a pillow were provided on the sleeper train. The train does not have the same “no shoes” policy though, so hygiene is, mildly put, lackluster.

Overall, I think the train is a bit better, especially if you pay a little more for a 1st or 2nd class ticket.

A Quick Survival Guide (Do’s and Don’t’s)

Here are some quick tips on traveling with the Vietnamese sleeper buses.

Do’s

1. Always carry your valuables with you during the trip, preferably out of sight and close to your body.
2. Bring a hoodie, travel pillow, eyemask, or any other sleeping/traveling items you might have with you on the bus. Also, the AC is sometimes quite cold and the thin blanket provided isn’t enough.
3. Wear socks. You will remove your shoes inside the bus so if you wore sandals, prepare an extra pair of socks.
4. Use restrooms during stops even if you don’t really need to. The next stop may not come for another 4-5 hours!
5. Charge your phone and/or carry a powerbank. Most sleeper buses don’t have power sockets.

Don’t’s

1. Don’t take big luggage with you on the bus. Store it in the compartment. Don’t lose the tag you’re given.
2. Don’t take the bus if a flight is cheaper. Domestic flights in Vietnam may sometimes be cheaper than a sleeper bus, which has no other benefits over flying. Check my guide to finding cheap flights.
3. Don’t take the first taxi after disembarking. FUTA buses have organized shuttle buses that will bring you to your hotel. If unsure, ask! Otherwise, bargain for the taxi price or use Grab (the SEA Uber).
4. Don’t run out of food/snacks. Bus journeys make you peckish.
5. Don’t take water with you. Most sleeper buses provide a bottle of water at the beginning of the journey. You really don’t want to be chugging much water if you don’t know when the next bathroom break will be anyway.

FAQ about the sleeper buses in Vietnam

Your burning questions – answered!

Do I need to book a ticket in advance?

Mostly no. Most routes are serviced by very frequent bus services and seats only sell out in the last hour before departure, if at all.

An exception is traveling during or near public holidays, especially Tet – the Vietnamese New Year. Things are a bit crazy in Vietnam during Tet.

Bus prices are higher and they do sell out! Still, a day in advance is usually plenty.

Are there bathrooms on board?

Usually, there is no bathroom on board a sleeper bus. Only more luxurious buses have a toilet inside.

This is why the buses stop for bathroom breaks every few hours.

How much luggage can I bring?

Refer to specific company policy for that. Most often, you’re allowed to “check in” one big bag of up to 20 kg and put it in the luggage compartment under the bus. I believe most companies are not super strict about a second one, but why do you even have that much?

You can bring a small bag on board. Don’t bring anything large inside, as there’s no space for it.

What are the main rules inside sleeper buses?

1. Remove your shoes and put them in a plastic bag.
2. Keep your noise to a minimum.
3. Use headphones.